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Before assembling your product, please take a few minutes to check the contents and become familiar with all the parts.
⚠WARNING - DO NOT overfill the pool and / or allow people to lay over or sit on pool wall - DOING SO CAN CAUSE PERMANENT INJURY! DRAIN pool to the proper level after a heavy rain.
⚠WARNING - VERY IMPORTANT! SITE MUST BE LEVEL, STABLE, COMPACTED SOIL.
The pool must be assembled on a smooth and level site of firm soil that is free of stones, gravel, sticks, blacktop, or other oil base compounds.
Do not install pool on a wooden deck or any type of wooden surface. You cannot use sand and/or uncompacted soil to provide a level surface for this pool; it will only wash out.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW WILL CAUSE POOL TO COLLAPSE AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY!
1. Select a level area, and completely remove all debris, twigs, stones, etc. DO NOT select an area under overhead electrical lines, trees, or within 15 feet of a house, building, etc.
2. The pool shall be located a minimum distance of 6ft (1.83m) from any electrical receptacle.
3. All 125 volt, 15 and 20 ampere receptacles located within 20ft (6.0m) of the pool shall be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
The 20ft (6m) distance is measured via the shortest straight line distance the supply cord would follow without piercing a floor, wall, ceiling, doorway, window, or other permanent barrier.
4. Contact your local utilities, checking that no underground cables, telephone lines, gas lines, etc. run beneath the area you have selected.
1. Select a level area, and completely remove all debris, twigs, stones, etc. Unfold the pool liner , inspect seams for manufacturing defects and allow it to sit in the sunlight for about 2 hours prior to installation. This will help to insure a wrinkle-free fit because the pool material will be more pliable.
2. Position the pool so the pump will be 10 to 21 feet from the electrical outlet you plan to use. Pull out the four rectangular flaps of wall material from the base of the pool, used for the frame.
3. Locate the four Horizontal Beams for the left and right support frame sections of the pool. Also locate the 4 U-shape Pipe frames.
4. Install the 8 pipe caps into the U-shape Pipes by pushing the buttons in as you insert the cap onto the pipe end. Look through the holes in the cap as you install it and slightly rotate the cap until the buttons align with the holes and pop up, locking the caps on the pipe ends. Arrange the U-shape pipes on each side of the pool near the rectangular flaps.
5. Slide the horizontal beams together (2 sets) and depress the button as you insert them together and slightly rotate them until the bottom aligns with the hole and pops up. Do not inflate the top ring until the support pieces are in place.
6. Install the plastic beam plugs in both ends of the horizontal beams, lightly tapping them into place. Slide the horizontal beam assembly through the sleeve stitched along the long sides of the pool, under the ring on both sides. Make sure the holes for the U-shape pipe frame are facing out.
7. Insert the two U-shape pipe sections through the end of the two rectangular strips at the bottom of the pool. Now insert the capped ends of the U-shape pipes into the holes in the Horizontal Beam assembly. Depress the buttons pushing the cap entirely into the horizontal beam until it stops.
8. Make sure both U-shape pipes are inserted fully and check that all connected sections are still securely fastened. Repeat steps for the frame on the opposite side of the pool.
9. Inflate the top ring. Squeeze the base of the valve stem to open an internal check valve while inflating.
10. Install pool wall fittings, make sure the drain fitting is plugged securely and the cap is in place. Start filling the pool with water. After about 1 inch of water is on the bottom, stop filling and smooth wrinkles out of the bottom of the pool. Pull the outer wall out from under the top ring, all around the bottom of the pool so that it fills evenly.
11. Continue filling pool until it is an ideal depth.
POOL WATER CAPACITY
|**All Capacities and Time Frames are Approximations**|
Oval Ring Pools
|Pool Size||Pool Capacity in Gallons 80%||600 Series||700/800 Series||1000 or 1500+ (PLUS) Series||
10" Sand Filter
12" Sand Filter
||3.6 hrs.||2.8 hrs.||2.2 hrs.||1.5 hrs.||1.5 hrs.||1.3 hrs.|
|15'x10'x42"||2,290||3.0 hrs.||2.3 hrs.||1.6 hrs.||1.6 hrs.||1.4 hrs.||1.2 hrs.|
|18'x10'x42"||2,900||3.8 hrs||2.9 hrs.||2.1 hrs.||2.0 hrs.||1.8 hrs.||1.5 hrs.||1.5 hrs.|
||4.4 hrs.||3.1 hrs.||2.9 hrs.||2.7 hrs.||2.2 hrs.||2.2 hrs.|
|20'x14'x42"||4,376||4.4 hrs.||3.1 hrs.||3.0 hrs.||2.7 hrs.||2.2 hrs.||2.2 hrs.|
|24'x15'x42"||5,596||5.6 hrs.||4.0 hrs.||3.8 hrs.||3.5 hrs.||2.9 hrs.||2.8 hrs.|
Draining the Pool
1. Locate the drain plug on the outside pool wall and remove the drain cap. A standard garden hose will thread onto the drain fitting. Extend the hose to the area where the water is to be drained. Open the drain plug on the inside wall of the pool and water will drain out through the hose. If you can't find the drain plug on the inside, the "useful tips" section below for troubleshooting.
|Outside Liner Drain||Inside Liner Plug|
2. Remove any remaining water. Wash and completely dry pool using a soft cotton cloth. Push the drain plug into the fitting and replace the cap.
3. Frame Pools: If your pool has metal frame work, disassemble those pieces. This is done depending on the model of pool. You either depress the plastic buttons and slide those pieces apart, or remove plastic pins holding pieces together and slide those pieces apart. If you aren't sure how to take down the pool, refer to the set-up sheet and reverse the order of the steps.
4. Clean all parts and wipe dry. Store together in a safe storage place for reassembly next season. Order replacement parts for any damaged, broken, or worn parts from Polygroup customer service at 1-888-919-0070 or at our online store. It is best to order parts now so you will have them ready for when you set up the pool next season.
5. Solar blankets, covers, ladders, etc., should be cleaned and dried before storing.
TIP: The drain to the pool will be found a few inches from the ground on the left or right side of the filter canister. If you can not find the drain cap, it likely means the liner floor was not spread evenly and the cap is under the lip of the pool. Run your hand under the floor of the pool on both sides of the canister. Once the cap is found, expose it by pushing up on the pool enough to unscrew the cap. This will likely require the use of a secondary method of removing water from the pool, such as an independent water pump.There are slight differences in garden hose nozzle threads. This can cause some hoses not to screw properly onto the drain cap threading. Basic hoses have a higher probability of fitting the thread.
Disassembling the Frame
Pin & Grommet Removal
1. A small rubber mallet can be used to tap the ends of the pins through the bottom of the horizontal beams along the top of the frame.
2. Alternately, a pair of needle nose pliers can be utilized to remove the pins. Using the needle nose pliers, compress the ends of pin together and push up. The compression of the end allows the exposes flanges that lock under the lip of the hole to slip inside the horizontal beam. Slip the needle nose pliers underneath the head of the pin and pull up, the pin can then be removed from the horizontal beam.
Dismantling Frame (After Pin Removal)
NOTE: There are many reasons why at the end of the season why frame components will not come apart. In the extreme heat of summer, metal expands which makes it difficult if not impossible to take frame apart. It is suggested to wait until the temperature drops giving time for the metal to cool and the metal to "Shrink" back to its normal dimensions.There is also a phenomenon known as hydrolysis, where the salty air and water creates a situation where the frame components all but weld together. What is suggested if you live in a high humidity area with salty air or if you are using a salt water filter is to use a penetrating oil pre-treatment or other silicone spray on all joints before putting the frame together. You can also use the penetrating oil at the end of the season to break apart the joints. Be certain to wipe away any excess before putting the frame together. Clean off all spray before storing the frame for the off season.
1. Metal expands in heat. Allow the pool frame to cool into the early evening before continuing dis-assembly.
2. Use two people to make the process easier. The horizontal beam is pulled away from the T-fitting by one person. The second person pulls the T-fitting the opposite direction, lifting up on both in a "opening a draw bridge" like motion to release the tension of the frame.
3. Rotate frame pieces clockwise, then counter clockwise. Repeat to aid in separating frame components. Utilizing two people makes the process much easier.
4. Leg caps can be difficult to remove. This is due to the extreme weight of the pool with water pressing down on them. Tap the bottom and sides of leg caps with a rubber mallet to loosen dirt and grim. Rotate the cap back and forth, clockwise and counter clockwise to loosen. Having a second person hold the vertical leg may be helpful.
There is no industry standard for deflating inflatable ring pools. Below is just one suggested option of deflating your Polygroup Quickset Pool.
DEFLATE METHOD OPTIONS
1. Firmly grip the bottom base of the air valve where the valve and the plastic of the ring meet. This will open the reverse valve on the inside. Use the other hand or have another person assist you in flattening the ring to speed up the deflate process.
2. Obtain a spring loaded heavy clamp, like the one shown below, with plastic guards. The tip guards will protect the pool from damage. Pinch the bottom base of the valve, this will open the reverse valve on the inside.
Utilize the clamp to keep the valve open while freeing up both hands to squeeze air out of the inflatable ring. This process is time consuming but does offer a good way of safely removing the air. Once the ring is empty, remove the clamp.